Confessions of the lipstick illuminati: Secrets from those in the know

From the crushed gemstones and red-blood bugs of the ancient Egyptian era to Queen Elizabeth I’s infamous red lip and the flowerbud pout of a geisha, lip colour has been a constant in the rich history of beauty. Vogue spoke to five major makeup maestros to discover their lipstick secrets and inspirations.

Charlotte Tilbury, founder of Charlotte Tilbury Beauty

“My earliest lipstick memory is from a very young age, watching my mother applying red lipstick with perfectly painted red nails. She used to say, ‘A red lip can take you anywhere!’ I call it happiness in a tube. It can boost your confidence, brighten your complexion and give you instant glamour. My favourite for every occasion is Charlotte Tilbury Matte Revolution in Pillow Talk. I always start with my Lip Cheat Lip Liner: smile slightly to get a bit of tautness in the lips and reveal the shape, then softly draw in the outline.”

Kay Montano, makeup artist

Thandie Newton with Montano (right). Image: Getty

“The ultimate lipstick scene for me is Grace Kelly in Rear Window. My favourite is a combination of Tinted Lip Balm in Red Dahlia by Burt’s Bees and Cocoa Lip Pencil by Bobbi Brown. The liner is to correct and enhance the natural lip, while the tinted lip balm moisturises and adds a stain.

“I’ve never regarded makeup as a mask, warpaint or something I wear because I feel insecure. Lipstick enhances my mojo—everyone wants to look and feel their best. I started using it in the 1980s, and I’m sure I used to wear something horribly gothic and metallic. Thankfully it’s too long ago to remember!”

Hannah Murray, makeup artist

Image: Dan Jackson

“The first lipstick I ever owned was my grandmother’s coral pink Helena Rubinstein. She gave it to me when it was almost finished—I must’ve been six or seven years old. I still recall the heady rose scent and the way she applied it before leaving the house. I feel more polished when I wear lipstick, but I still like it to feel effortless and cool. I feel too done when the lip is too opaque and perfect. I like to push colour into the lip with my finger, allowing for blurring of the natural lip line to create a fuller lip. My go-to colour is Velvet Matte Pencil in Bahama by Nars. It’s a great 1990s nude with a modern texture.”

Huda Kattan, founder and CEO of Huda Beauty

“Lipstick can honestly have so much power over how I see myself, how I behave, how I respond to certain situations. It also lets me unleash each of my alter egos; I love that I can choose who I want to be that day based on my lipstick shade. Day Slayer from my Demi Matte range is my go-to colour. Nude to me represents the sexiest lip and this actually reminds me of my first-ever lipstick by Revlon. I use my Lip Contour Pencil and fade it towards the centre to give the illusion of plumper lips. I apply lipstick to the middle of my lips and rub them together until it’s perfect. I love a stained effect so I blot with a tissue after applying. One of my favourite looks is Lucille Ball in I Love Lucy—her bright orange hair and fierce red lip are just so iconic.”

Mary Greenwell, makeup artist

“I’ve been using Crème in your Coffee by M.A.C for years. I carry it around in my handbag. Don’t worry about changing colours—if you find one you love, stick with it. I apply it straight from the bullet—thousands of coats back and forth. Lipstick just makes my mouth feel better. I love the feeling of wearing lots of it. I am my own icon—but the 1940s was such an iconic period when every actress wore lipstick. Max Factor red lipstick back then was amazing.”

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